14K gold is the better choice for jewelry you wear every day: chains, bracelets and rings that see desks, keyboards and bag straps. 18K gold has a deeper yellow and more gold in every gram, so it costs more and wears a little faster. Here is what the numbers mean and how to choose.
What the karat number means
Gold purity is measured in parts out of 24. Pure gold is 24 karat, too soft for most jewelry, so it is mixed with other metals such as silver, copper and zinc to make it harder and to set its color.
- 14K is 14 parts gold in 24, or 58.3% gold. It is usually stamped 14K or 585.
- 18K is 18 parts gold in 24, or 75% gold. It is usually stamped 18K or 750.
- 10K is 41.7% gold, stamped 10K or 417. In the United States, 10K is the lowest purity that can be sold as gold.
Durability: why 14K suits everyday pieces
The extra alloy in 14K makes it harder, so it holds up better to daily knocks and shows fewer fine scratches. 18K is softer and marks more easily, which matters most on rings, bangles and chain links that rub against each other. Both are durable enough to last decades with ordinary care; 14K simply needs less of it.
Color
18K yellow gold is richer and warmer because there is more gold in it. 14K yellow gold is a slightly lighter, softer yellow that sits easily next to other jewelry. Next to each other the difference is visible; on its own, most people read both as classic gold. White gold in either karat is often plated with rhodium for its bright white color, and that plating can need renewing over time.
Price
An 18K piece contains about 29% more gold than the same piece in 14K, so it costs more at the same weight. That is why everyday chains and bracelets are most often made in 14K, while many signed pre-owned pieces from houses such as Cartier and Van Cleef & Arpels are 18K.
Sensitive skin
Higher karat means less alloy metal against the skin, which some people with metal sensitivities find more comfortable. Reactions usually come from specific alloy metals, most often nickel in some white gold, rather than from gold itself. If you know you react to nickel, ask about the alloy before you buy.
Gold, gold-plated and gold-filled are not the same
Karat gold, 14K or 18K, is gold alloy all the way through the metal. Gold-plated jewelry has a thin layer of gold over another metal, such as sterling silver, and the layer can wear through with time. Gold-filled jewelry has a thicker layer of gold bonded to a base metal. A karat stamp such as 585 or 750 refers to the gold alloy itself.
A separate question is whether a chain is solid or hollow. Both can be 14K gold. Solid links are gold through each link; semi-solid and lightweight chains use less gold for the same width, which lowers the weight and the price. Our gold chain guide explains the trade-off.
How to check a piece
Look for the karat stamp, usually on the clasp of a chain or inside the band of a ring, and read it with a loupe or a phone camera zoomed in. A maker's mark often sits beside it. A stamp is a claim, not proof, so buy from a jeweler who states the metal on every listing.
Our 14K gold
Our house gold is 14K, almost all in yellow gold, chosen for pieces you wear every day:
- Chain necklaces such as the 2.5mm paperclip chain and the 3.6mm curb chain.
- Chain bracelets such as the 2.8mm herringbone bracelet, and the polished 5mm bangle.
- Gold rings such as the mini signet ring and the polished band.
See everything in 14K gold jewelry. Jewelry ships free and insured, with 14 days to return unworn pieces.
Frequently asked
Is 14K or 18K gold better for everyday wear?
14K. It is harder than 18K, so it scratches and dents less on chains, bracelets and rings worn every day. 18K has a deeper yellow and more gold, but it is softer and costs more.
What percentage of gold is in 14K and 18K gold?
14K gold is 58.3% gold, usually stamped 585. 18K gold is 75% gold, usually stamped 750. The rest is alloy metal that adds hardness and sets the color.
Does 14K gold tarnish?
14K gold does not rust. The alloy metals in it can dull slightly over time, faster with lotion, perfume or chlorine; a soft cloth and warm water with a drop of mild soap bring back the shine.
Is 14K gold real gold?
Yes. 14K gold is a gold alloy that is 58.3% gold all the way through. It is different from gold-plated jewelry, which has only a thin layer of gold over another metal.