The brooch is back, and this time it is not just for your grandmother's lapel. Fashion credits Chanel's Spring 2026 chrysanthemum pins with starting the revival, labels from Tory Burch to Carolina Herrera have followed, and this month Olivia Rodrigo pinned a blush silk-organza flower to her jacket courtside at a New York Liberty playoff game at Barclays Center. The easiest way into the trend is also the most lasting one: a signed gold brooch from the estate market.
Why the Brooch, and Why Now
A brooch does something no other jewelry can: it goes anywhere. It can sit on a coat, a sweater, a blazer, a bag or a hat, and it changes the whole outfit with one gesture. After several seasons of minimal, stacked gold, a single sculptural pin feels new again. It also suits fall and winter, when necklaces disappear under coats and scarves and the outside of your clothes becomes the place to wear something special.
A Short History of the Brooch
The brooch is one of the oldest forms of jewelry. It began as a working pin that held a cloak or tunic closed, and over centuries it became purely decorative. By the middle of the twentieth century, a well-dressed woman might own a whole wardrobe of brooches and change them with her coat. Some people have used them as a language: the former Secretary of State Madeleine Albright famously chose her pins to signal her mood in diplomatic meetings, and later wrote a book about them. That is the real appeal of a brooch. It is the one piece of jewelry that is meant to be read.
Fabric Flowers vs Gold Brooches
Most of what is in stores right now is fabric: silk, organza and chiffon flowers that look romantic for a season. A gold brooch is a different object. It is made to last generations, it holds its shape, and the best ones were made by houses whose designs are still recognized at a glance. The estate market is full of them, because brooches were an everyday accessory for decades and many were put away when tastes changed.
Flowers are the obvious match for this season's trend. Van Cleef & Arpels' Rose de Noël is one of the house's best-known flower designs, and this Rose de Noël brooch in 18K yellow gold and coral is the trend in its most refined form.
The Animal Brooch
If flowers feel too sweet, animals are the other great brooch tradition, and no one did them better than David Webb, the New York jeweler whose bold enamel and gold creatures became icons in the 1960s. A David Webb gold frog with ruby eyes or a David Webb unicorn in black enamel, rubies and diamonds is witty, unmistakable and very New York. Cartier's panther is the other classic, as in this Panthère cat brooch with diamonds and a pearl.
How to Wear a Brooch Now
- On a coat lapel or collar: the classic placement, high on the left side, where it is seen first. It instantly makes a plain wool coat look considered.
- On a knit: pin it just below the collarbone on a crewneck or turtleneck. Sweaters need a lighter brooch, so the fabric does not sag.
- At the waist: on a belt or the waistband of a skirt, as the runways showed this season.
- On a bag or hat: a brooch on a leather tote or the band of a felt hat is the most casual way to wear one.
- In a cluster: two or three small brooches grouped together on a jacket look deliberate and collected rather than random. Mix flowers with animals, or gold with color.
What to Check on an Estate Brooch
Brooches are among the best-preserved estate pieces, because they are not worn against the skin or knocked around the way rings and bracelets are. Still, check three things:
- The pin and catch: the pin stem should be straight and firm and the catch should close securely. Older brooches often have a simple C-shaped catch; a safety catch that locks is more secure and can be added by a jeweler.
- Enamel and stones: look for chips in enamel and check that every stone is present and tight.
- The signature: on a signed piece, the maker's mark, gold purity mark and any serial number should be cleanly struck. Our guide to authenticating David Webb covers what to look for.
Shop Estate Brooches
Browse our David Webb, Van Cleef & Arpels and Seaman Schepps collections, including this Seaman Schepps gemstone brooch in 18K yellow gold, or the full pre-owned and estate jewelry collection. Every piece is examined before listing. Jewelry ships free and insured, with 14-day returns on unworn pieces.
Frequently asked
Are brooches in style in 2026?
Yes. Brooches are one of the strongest accessory trends of 2026, led by Chanel's Spring 2026 flower pins and picked up across fashion labels and celebrity street style.
Where should I wear a brooch?
The classic spot is high on the left lapel or collar of a coat or jacket. Brooches also work on a sweater below the collarbone, at the waist, on a bag or hat, or grouped in a small cluster.
Is an estate brooch a good buy?
Often, yes. Brooches are usually well preserved because they are not worn against the skin, and many signed gold brooches from houses like David Webb and Van Cleef and Arpels are available in the estate market. Check the pin, catch, enamel, stones and signature before you buy.