Jewelry is usually dated by era, and each era has a recognizable look. Georgian jewelry (1714 to 1837) is hand-finished and delicate. Victorian (1837 to 1901) is sentimental and varied. Edwardian (1901 to 1915) is light and lacy in platinum. Art Deco (about 1920 to the late 1930s) is geometric. Retro (late 1930s to about 1950) is bold, sculptural gold. Mid-century and the 1970s bring texture, gemstones and strong personality. Dates overlap, and the clues below are guides rather than proof.
Georgian, 1714 to 1837
Georgian jewelry is entirely handmade, which gives it an individual, slightly irregular finish. It is rare, and most of what survives is in museums and collections. The diamonds of the period were cut by hand into soft, squarish shapes, and they were often set in closed backs with foil behind them. If you see a piece from this era, expect to find it in specialist antique sales rather than in a typical shop.
Victorian, 1837 to 1901
Victorian jewelry covers a long reign and a lot of styles. Early pieces are romantic: flowers, hearts, snakes and lockets, often in yellow gold with seed pearls or garnets. The middle of the reign brought mourning jewelry in black jet and enamel. Late Victorian pieces use more diamonds, in stars and crescents, as new supplies of stones became available. Look for hand engraving, small stones and an overall sentimental theme.
Art Nouveau, about 1890 to 1910
Art Nouveau overlaps the late Victorian and Edwardian periods. It is organic: curving lines, dragonflies, women with flowing hair, orchids and enamel in soft colors. It prizes artistry over stone size, so a piece may use opals, horn or moonstones rather than diamonds.
Edwardian, 1901 to 1915
Edwardian jewelry is light and airy. Platinum became practical to work, and jewelers used it to make fine, lacy settings with garlands, bows and delicate milgrain edges. Diamonds are usually old-cut and set in platinum, often with pearls. The look is formal and feminine. Our guide to vintage engagement rings explains the old-cut diamonds typical of this period.
Art Deco, about 1920 to the late 1930s
Art Deco is geometric and graphic. Straight lines, symmetry, stepped shapes and strong contrast define it: black onyx or enamel against white diamonds, or deep blue sapphire against platinum. Calibré-cut colored stones and baguette diamonds are typical. Dates for the end of the period vary between sources, which is why you will see Art Deco given as ending anywhere from the mid-1930s to the mid-1940s.
Retro, late 1930s to about 1950
Retro jewelry is a reaction to wartime shortages and a love of drama. Platinum was restricted, so jewelers turned to yellow and rose gold, and used it generously in big curves, bows, ribbons, flowers and scrolls. Stones are warm and colorful: citrine, aquamarine, rubies and synthetic stones. Pieces feel sculptural and larger than their Deco predecessors. These Cartier starburst cluster earrings in 18K yellow gold are listed as vintage retro.
The 1950s and 1960s
After the war, jewelers returned to diamonds and platinum, and design softened. Brooches, floral designs and sets of matching earrings, necklace and bracelet were popular. By the 1960s the shapes had become freer, with textured gold, abstract forms and larger colored stones. Jean Schlumberger began designing for Tiffany & Co. in the mid-1950s, bringing enamel and nature-inspired forms to its jewelry; this Tiffany & Co. Schlumberger croisillon red enamel bracelet is a signed example in the vintage collection.
The 1970s
The 1970s were about warmth and texture: bold yellow gold with a brushed or hammered finish, chunky links, animal motifs and large cabochon stones such as turquoise, coral and carved gems. New York designers like David Webb made animal bracelets and enamel pieces that still define the look. See this David Webb ram bangle with emeralds and diamonds or these black enamel door knocker earrings.
Clues That Help You Date a Piece
- Metal: platinum with fine detail suggests the Edwardian or Deco periods; heavy, sculptural yellow gold suggests Retro or the 1970s.
- Diamond cut: hand-cut stones with a small table and large culet suggest an earlier period; modern brilliants suggest a piece from after about 1920.
- Construction: hand-engraved, milgrain-edged and openwork settings are earlier; cast and textured settings are later.
- Clasps and fittings: older fittings are simple; later pieces carry stamped marks, which our guide to hallmarks explains.
- Motifs: flowers and lockets suggest Victorian; geometry suggests Deco; ribbons and bows suggest Retro; animals and cabochons suggest the 1970s.
Which Era Should You Wear?
Choose the era that suits how you live. Deco and Edwardian pieces are delicate and suit occasion wear. Retro and 1970s gold is bold and easy to wear every day. A good rule is to wear one statement piece from an earlier era with simple modern jewelry, rather than a full period set. See the vintage jewelry collection and pre-owned and estate jewelry to see what is available now. Every order ships free and insured, with 14-day returns on unworn jewelry.
Frequently asked
What years was Art Deco jewelry made?
Art Deco jewelry dates from about 1920 to the late 1930s. Sources vary on the end date, and some extend the period into the mid-1940s.
How can I tell Retro jewelry from Art Deco?
Art Deco is geometric and often set in platinum. Retro, from the late 1930s to about 1950, is sculptural yellow or rose gold with large curves, bows and flowers.
What is mid-century jewelry?
Mid-century jewelry generally means pieces from the 1950s and 1960s, when designs softened into florals, brooches and textured gold after the bold Retro period.