Choose your first vintage piece the way you would choose any piece you plan to wear often: by how you live, not by how rare it is. Start with a category you already wear, such as earrings, a bracelet or a cocktail ring, in a metal color that matches what you own. Look for good condition over perfect condition, a signature or clear marks, and a design that feels like you. Then learn how the materials need to be cared for, because many vintage pieces use stones and finishes that modern jewelry does not.
Start With How You Live
A piece you wear is worth more to you than a piece you keep in a box. Think about your week before you think about the era.
- If you wear earrings every day, a pair of vintage earrings is the easiest way in. Gold hoops, studs and clip-ons all suit a daily routine. These David Webb black enamel door knocker earrings are bold but simple to wear.
- If you like a stacked wrist, a bangle or charm bracelet works with a watch and with modern bracelets. See this Harry Winston platinum seven-charm bracelet or this Boucheron slip-on bangle with green emeralds.
- If you like one statement piece, a vintage cocktail ring is the classic choice, such as this Tiffany & Co. Schlumberger citrine ring. Our guide to the right-hand ring explains how to wear one.
- If you want something quiet, a vintage pendant on a fine chain, like this vintage yellow gold and diamond pendant, goes with almost anything.
Match the Metal and the Scale
Vintage pieces are often larger and more sculptural than their modern equivalents, so check scale. Hold the piece up to your ear, wrist or hand in the mirror before you decide. Match the gold to what you already wear. A mix of metals is fine when it is deliberate, and many vintage pieces mix platinum and yellow gold on purpose.
What Good Condition Looks Like
Vintage jewelry is allowed to show its age. What you want to avoid is damage that affects how the piece wears.
- Light surface wear on gold is normal and can be polished.
- Secure stones. Stones should not move when you tap the piece gently.
- Intact enamel. Look for chips or cracks, especially at the edges.
- Working clasps and fittings. A weak clasp is the usual reason a piece is lost.
- Clear marks. See our guide to hallmarks and maker's marks.
Clip-On Earrings
Many vintage earrings are clip-ons, made for wearers without pierced ears. Clips do not need piercings and can be adjusted for comfort, and a jeweler can often change the tension or convert some designs to posts. Try them on and wear them for a while before you decide. These Van Cleef & Arpels Rose de Noël coral clip-ons show how elegant a clip can be.
How to Care for Common Vintage Materials
- Gold and platinum: warm water, mild soap and a soft brush. Dry gently with a soft cloth.
- Enamel: it is glass fused to metal and can chip if knocked. Wipe with a soft damp cloth and avoid soaking or any impact.
- Coral and turquoise: they are soft and porous. Keep them away from perfume, hairspray, lotions and household cleaners, and wipe them clean with a soft dry cloth. This David Webb turquoise ring and Tiffany & Co. coral bracelet are examples.
- Emeralds: they often have small natural inclusions and are frequently treated with oil or resin, so avoid ultrasonic cleaners and heat. A pendant or earrings, like this David Webb emerald and diamond necklace, takes less knocking than a ring.
- Pearls and opals: they are soft and sensitive to moisture and chemicals. Put them on last and take them off first.
If you are unsure about a stone, do not use an ultrasonic cleaner. Take it to a jeweler instead.
Storage and Wear
Store pieces separately in soft pouches so they do not scratch each other. Take rings and bracelets off for exercise, cleaning and swimming. Put jewelry on after your skincare and perfume. Have prongs, clasps and chains checked about once a year. Vintage pieces have survived decades of wear, but a small repair today prevents a lost stone later.
Wearing It
You do not need to dress in the style of the period. Wear one vintage piece with modern clothes and simple modern jewelry, and let it do the talking. For more ideas, read our vintage jewelry styling guide. The vintage jewelry collection is the best place to start looking.
Every order ships free and insured, and unworn jewelry can be returned within 14 days of delivery.
Frequently asked
What is a good first vintage jewelry piece?
Start with a category you already wear, such as earrings, a bracelet or a cocktail ring, in your usual metal color. A piece you will reach for often is better than a rare one that stays in a box.
How do I clean vintage jewelry safely?
Gold and platinum can be cleaned with warm water, mild soap and a soft brush. Wipe enamel, coral, turquoise, pearls and opals with a soft cloth, and avoid ultrasonic cleaners for emeralds and soft stones.
Can vintage clip-on earrings be worn comfortably?
Yes. Clip-ons can often be adjusted for comfort by a jeweler, and some designs can be converted to posts. Try them on and wear them for a while before you decide.